1 00:00:02,085 --> 00:00:04,295 -[sirens wailing in distance] -[car horn honking] 2 00:00:09,175 --> 00:00:11,970 [Enninful] I've worked in fashion for over 30 years, 3 00:00:14,264 --> 00:00:16,182 and I'm still crazy about it. 4 00:00:17,100 --> 00:00:18,101 How are you? 5 00:00:18,184 --> 00:00:20,645 As someone who's edited Vogue magazine, 6 00:00:20,729 --> 00:00:24,065 I guess I'm part of the establishment, an insider. 7 00:00:25,400 --> 00:00:28,403 Maybe we need to break up the column distributor... 8 00:00:30,113 --> 00:00:31,698 But that's not how I started. 9 00:00:33,825 --> 00:00:36,953 Back then, I couldn't have been more of an outsider, 10 00:00:37,037 --> 00:00:38,413 maybe even a rebel. 11 00:00:38,496 --> 00:00:40,123 [metal screeching] 12 00:00:43,043 --> 00:00:45,503 [Enninful] One day, I remember getting on the train 13 00:00:45,587 --> 00:00:46,796 and this man got up. 14 00:00:47,505 --> 00:00:50,008 Gave me his card, and he wanted me to model for him. 15 00:00:51,134 --> 00:00:52,260 I didn't really know... 16 00:00:53,178 --> 00:00:54,721 [chuckles] what modelling was. 17 00:00:55,764 --> 00:00:57,682 Um, so I remember going home 18 00:00:57,766 --> 00:01:00,143 and my dad literally said, "No, you can't model," 19 00:01:00,226 --> 00:01:03,188 and my mum was like, "No, not that industry, no." 20 00:01:03,855 --> 00:01:07,734 You know, like most 16-year-olds, I just pressured her and pressured her, 21 00:01:08,902 --> 00:01:10,737 and this time she said, "Okay." 22 00:01:10,820 --> 00:01:13,740 That first shoot I was like... It was so exhilarating. 23 00:01:14,949 --> 00:01:17,952 It's really amazing to think that that train journey 24 00:01:18,036 --> 00:01:19,662 sort of changed my life. 25 00:01:19,746 --> 00:01:22,332 [♪ lively reggae music SL2 "On A Ragga Tip" playing] 26 00:01:23,666 --> 00:01:25,001 [Enninful] And we were all so young, 27 00:01:25,085 --> 00:01:27,712 it felt like we were part of something exciting 28 00:01:27,796 --> 00:01:30,423 that hadn't yet become mainstream. 29 00:01:33,551 --> 00:01:35,386 The underground scene that I knew in London, 30 00:01:35,970 --> 00:01:37,847 the heart of it, was rebellion. 31 00:01:39,557 --> 00:01:42,602 We lived in bedsits, we lived in unfurnished flats, 32 00:01:42,685 --> 00:01:45,647 we went to clubs that weren't the most glamorous, 33 00:01:45,730 --> 00:01:47,732 you know, and that was our life. 34 00:01:48,608 --> 00:01:50,819 It was music, it was the art scene. 35 00:01:52,028 --> 00:01:53,780 We just wanted to change the world, 36 00:01:54,531 --> 00:01:56,616 -show the world something new. -[♪ music concludes] 37 00:02:04,040 --> 00:02:06,126 [Glen Luchford] When i-D magazine came out, 38 00:02:06,209 --> 00:02:08,211 it felt like the first fashion magazine 39 00:02:08,294 --> 00:02:10,505 that really represented the street. 40 00:02:14,717 --> 00:02:17,011 By the 1990s, I was at i-D, 41 00:02:17,720 --> 00:02:19,514 the youngest fashion director in history. 42 00:02:20,098 --> 00:02:21,850 A bit of fun at i-D. 43 00:02:21,933 --> 00:02:24,561 [Enninful] We were on the edge, we were the cool kids, 44 00:02:24,644 --> 00:02:26,396 we were against the system. 45 00:02:28,439 --> 00:02:30,859 [man] So, tell me, what's the best thing about i-D? 46 00:02:30,942 --> 00:02:36,698 We just present an alternative. We present different ways to view clothes. 47 00:02:37,365 --> 00:02:40,994 It was a magazine by young people for young people 48 00:02:41,077 --> 00:02:43,371 and just really giving youth a voice. 49 00:02:44,581 --> 00:02:48,126 You know, we put together things that had soul, that had meaning, 50 00:02:48,209 --> 00:02:52,714 that felt personal to us, and we would create a shoot that way. 51 00:02:54,799 --> 00:02:56,801 It was a truly independent magazine. 52 00:02:58,094 --> 00:03:00,138 [Enninful] The word "commercial" was the dirtiest word. 53 00:03:00,763 --> 00:03:02,599 It's like, "We don't do commercial pictures, 54 00:03:02,682 --> 00:03:04,058 "we don't do commercial clothes." 55 00:03:04,934 --> 00:03:09,898 So, everything was anti-establishment, anti-fashion, so we called it grunge. 56 00:03:13,401 --> 00:03:15,445 Grunge was really just a state of mind. 57 00:03:16,571 --> 00:03:18,740 Being fashionable used to mean looking good. 58 00:03:18,823 --> 00:03:22,118 Well, thanks to a fad that started in the Pacific Northwest, 59 00:03:22,202 --> 00:03:24,996 high fashion now means, well, you decide. 60 00:03:25,079 --> 00:03:27,707 Anything that wasn't glamorous and elegant was grungy. 61 00:03:29,709 --> 00:03:33,463 When the music wasn't like pop music but really dark, 62 00:03:33,546 --> 00:03:35,381 it became "grungy music", right? 63 00:03:35,465 --> 00:03:40,678 If the fashion wasn't the big shoulders and big hair, it became "grungy fashion". 64 00:03:41,638 --> 00:03:42,805 [male reporter] The grunge look 65 00:03:42,889 --> 00:03:46,059 is an urban lumberjack, anything goes ensemble 66 00:03:46,142 --> 00:03:49,395 of duck boots, tattered shirts, and long underwear. 67 00:03:50,605 --> 00:03:54,192 The whole rebellious, rejecting luxury and like... 68 00:03:54,275 --> 00:03:55,526 Where everything was going 69 00:03:56,194 --> 00:03:57,904 and just having an allergic reaction to it. 70 00:03:58,821 --> 00:04:00,990 I mean, it was just so raw and so real. 71 00:04:01,741 --> 00:04:04,619 We heard of this incredible husband and wife duo, 72 00:04:04,702 --> 00:04:06,329 Kurt Cobain and Courtney. 73 00:04:07,622 --> 00:04:09,749 And we were obsessed with Courtney's style, 74 00:04:10,375 --> 00:04:13,544 the little princess with the tiara and the socks. 75 00:04:13,628 --> 00:04:14,879 It was so grunge. 76 00:04:16,297 --> 00:04:18,383 [Kim Kardashian] All we wanted to do on the weekends 77 00:04:18,466 --> 00:04:21,511 is do these like mock-up little photoshoots in our garages. 78 00:04:21,594 --> 00:04:25,265 Messy hair and baggy pants 79 00:04:25,348 --> 00:04:28,977 and we definitely had, like, this attitude, for sure. 80 00:04:29,060 --> 00:04:30,728 All of our parents were like, 81 00:04:30,812 --> 00:04:32,939 "What are you guys doing?" Like, you know, "Dress... 82 00:04:33,022 --> 00:04:34,023 "You gotta dress up." 83 00:04:34,107 --> 00:04:36,401 But for us Gen Xers, 84 00:04:36,484 --> 00:04:40,196 it was a way to put a stamp on who we were as a generation. 85 00:04:41,322 --> 00:04:44,117 People couldn't ignore the fact that there was a shift. 86 00:04:45,994 --> 00:04:48,538 There was really something happening, 87 00:04:49,122 --> 00:04:53,459 and no force on Earth can stop an idea whose time has come. 88 00:04:55,753 --> 00:04:58,172 Grunge. Mmm. 89 00:04:58,256 --> 00:04:59,382 Yes. 90 00:04:59,966 --> 00:05:03,469 No, Anna was not the biggest, biggest fan of grunge, I wouldn't say. 91 00:05:05,138 --> 00:05:07,932 [chuckles] She just... It wasn't her thing. 92 00:05:08,016 --> 00:05:12,645 Anna was appalled, frankly, by grunge. 93 00:05:12,729 --> 00:05:14,772 [in French accent] So suddenly you need the big boots, 94 00:05:14,856 --> 00:05:19,110 big looks of poverty, no look, this thing clack, clack. 95 00:05:19,193 --> 00:05:24,407 I don't like the idea to look poor when you are not poor. I hate this. 96 00:05:26,034 --> 00:05:29,579 Grunge was not joyful and it was not uplifting 97 00:05:29,662 --> 00:05:31,831 and it was not covetable. 98 00:05:31,914 --> 00:05:33,833 You didn't really wanna be in that picture. 99 00:05:34,917 --> 00:05:37,670 [Grace Coddington] For me, personally, I love grunge. 100 00:05:39,047 --> 00:05:42,717 One felt there was a change in the air, 101 00:05:42,800 --> 00:05:45,136 and I sort of got hooked. 102 00:05:46,512 --> 00:05:48,639 Yeah, so did you have a story in mind? 103 00:05:48,723 --> 00:05:49,807 -I'll find one. -Okay. 104 00:05:49,891 --> 00:05:51,517 Absolutely, I'll find one. 105 00:05:51,601 --> 00:05:55,355 So, yes, I took the jump, and I said, 106 00:05:55,438 --> 00:05:57,732 "We have to do this grunge story." 107 00:05:58,608 --> 00:06:01,194 But Anna wasn't really going for that, you know. 108 00:06:02,612 --> 00:06:06,783 Grace and Anna, it was love-hate. 109 00:06:07,241 --> 00:06:10,119 Um, row is a bit heavy. 110 00:06:11,120 --> 00:06:15,583 But row, yes, I should say so. [chuckles] 111 00:06:16,376 --> 00:06:21,506 Can you get me a car to go to, um, Rick at 12:30? 112 00:06:22,465 --> 00:06:25,093 [Kristen McMenamy] Grace, a little powerhouse, 113 00:06:25,885 --> 00:06:27,512 she breaks the rules 114 00:06:27,595 --> 00:06:30,139 but she's like a naughty little kid breaking the rules, 115 00:06:30,223 --> 00:06:32,058 like, "I hope I get away with it." 116 00:06:33,976 --> 00:06:36,813 I think I've told Anna about it, but only half. 117 00:06:36,896 --> 00:06:38,356 -I like the stripe. -Yeah... 118 00:06:38,439 --> 00:06:40,650 I don't think the word "grunge" ever came out. 119 00:06:42,110 --> 00:06:45,446 I say something I want to do, she says no, 120 00:06:46,364 --> 00:06:51,202 and then I bring it round the other way, and come from this direction. 121 00:06:51,828 --> 00:06:54,288 She says no, so I come from this direction 122 00:06:54,372 --> 00:06:58,042 and that direction and eventually, I kind of wear her down. 123 00:06:59,001 --> 00:07:00,253 So, yes, I'm stubborn. 124 00:07:01,337 --> 00:07:02,463 We hated grunge. 125 00:07:04,590 --> 00:07:07,427 But the new generation of designers loved it 126 00:07:07,510 --> 00:07:09,053 and Vogue had to reflect that. 127 00:07:10,012 --> 00:07:12,640 I love Marc. He have something that I love. 128 00:07:14,475 --> 00:07:17,019 [Jacobs] When we did the grunge collection, I was like, 129 00:07:17,103 --> 00:07:19,105 "I hope the audience likes it." 130 00:07:21,149 --> 00:07:23,484 But I didn't care. [chuckles] 131 00:07:24,569 --> 00:07:28,573 [Tonne Goodman] Marc Jacobs had just taken the reins at Perry Ellis, 132 00:07:28,656 --> 00:07:33,327 which was this very preppy, classic, Upper East Side brand. 133 00:07:33,411 --> 00:07:37,498 It was for, you know, the New Yorker who dressed well, 134 00:07:38,166 --> 00:07:40,293 quite restrained, quite traditional. 135 00:07:41,043 --> 00:07:44,338 [chuckles] And he was determined to shake things up. 136 00:07:45,840 --> 00:07:47,675 [Jacobs] I was gonna be the youngest person ever 137 00:07:47,758 --> 00:07:49,927 to run a huge house on 7th Avenue. 138 00:07:50,595 --> 00:07:52,430 But I had made a decision 139 00:07:52,513 --> 00:07:57,018 that I was going to make and create and do 140 00:07:57,560 --> 00:07:59,479 based on what inspires me. 141 00:07:59,562 --> 00:08:00,730 [reporter] ...now that we have 142 00:08:00,813 --> 00:08:02,732 -a light on you. -I think they look gorgeous, huh? 143 00:08:04,317 --> 00:08:08,070 I had crazy energy. 144 00:08:08,154 --> 00:08:10,031 I mean, we couldn't do enough. 145 00:08:12,909 --> 00:08:14,952 My agent was like, "You've gotta do this show." 146 00:08:15,036 --> 00:08:17,580 You know, it was all kind of like pinning things together 147 00:08:17,663 --> 00:08:19,582 at the last minute. It was so exciting. 148 00:08:20,416 --> 00:08:21,959 [McMenamy] It was a high risk show, 149 00:08:22,585 --> 00:08:26,214 and I remember just, like, chatting with Naomi 150 00:08:26,756 --> 00:08:29,842 about the looks, and being like, 151 00:08:31,427 --> 00:08:33,221 "What? What's he doing?" 152 00:08:38,684 --> 00:08:42,980 I was at that show and I remember being completely stunned. 153 00:08:44,690 --> 00:08:47,902 The whole world was like, [gasps] "What the hell is this?" 154 00:08:50,947 --> 00:08:54,242 Carlyne Cerf from Vogue was helping me and she was like... 155 00:08:54,325 --> 00:08:56,369 [mimics French accent] "I hate grunge, I hate grunge." 156 00:08:56,452 --> 00:08:58,496 I hate grunge! 157 00:08:59,372 --> 00:09:00,915 [in normal accent] But she wouldn't leave. 158 00:09:00,998 --> 00:09:04,418 Carla Bruni, she was in this dress, and it just didn't seem right. 159 00:09:04,502 --> 00:09:07,797 I was like, "Well, we'll just cut it," and Carlyne loved the idea. 160 00:09:07,880 --> 00:09:09,382 She went, "Cut the dress," and, 161 00:09:09,465 --> 00:09:11,592 I just took her scissors and roughly chopped it. 162 00:09:13,886 --> 00:09:16,556 Barely covering her bum. [chuckles] 163 00:09:21,727 --> 00:09:24,939 When you really looked at the collection, it was very, very sophisticated. 164 00:09:25,898 --> 00:09:31,195 They were very beautifully orchestrated patterns on patterns on patterns 165 00:09:31,279 --> 00:09:33,406 and the palette was very kind of washed out. 166 00:09:34,448 --> 00:09:37,451 [Jacobs] We were layering the clothes with a flannel shirt... 167 00:09:38,869 --> 00:09:40,371 with a knit beanie, 168 00:09:40,454 --> 00:09:44,333 and the girls just coming out in, like, Doc Martens or Converse. 169 00:09:45,876 --> 00:09:49,505 It was like complete confidence that this was good, 170 00:09:49,589 --> 00:09:53,175 and it was right, and it was exciting, complete. 171 00:09:55,094 --> 00:09:58,389 I was part of the grunge thing, that's how we dressed. 172 00:09:59,223 --> 00:10:01,684 So the fashion wasn't shocking to me at all, 173 00:10:02,685 --> 00:10:05,563 but it was to everyone else. 174 00:10:07,523 --> 00:10:11,027 After the show, it was like, "Jesus, what has happened?" 175 00:10:13,571 --> 00:10:16,532 [Bowles] That collection made Marc an overnight star. 176 00:10:17,992 --> 00:10:19,869 But a star without a job. 177 00:10:21,078 --> 00:10:22,163 That was it. 178 00:10:24,332 --> 00:10:26,751 When people say, "You were fired from Perry Ellis 179 00:10:26,834 --> 00:10:31,130 "because of the grunge show," like, it just made me, like, this rebel. 180 00:10:32,673 --> 00:10:36,886 There was really something happening and, like, nobody could ignore it. 181 00:10:40,222 --> 00:10:43,476 [Bowles] Back at Vogue, Grace, God love her, 182 00:10:43,559 --> 00:10:45,186 pushed for a grunge shoot. 183 00:10:46,312 --> 00:10:49,023 And Anna let Grace do her thing. 184 00:10:52,818 --> 00:10:57,531 Yeah, we went off to the country and, you know, we had a great day. 185 00:11:00,826 --> 00:11:05,081 I was working a lot with the great Steven Meisel at that time, 186 00:11:05,164 --> 00:11:07,541 who was an extraordinary photographer. 187 00:11:08,959 --> 00:11:12,505 I had McMenamy who I was crazy about. 188 00:11:13,756 --> 00:11:15,966 And then Naomi, 189 00:11:16,676 --> 00:11:19,345 they were loving it, we were having such a great time. 190 00:11:22,848 --> 00:11:24,725 [Campbell] I never asked, "What are we shooting?" 191 00:11:24,809 --> 00:11:26,018 I've never asked that. 192 00:11:26,102 --> 00:11:29,355 When I got there and I saw what it was, I was so excited. 193 00:11:32,650 --> 00:11:37,071 I remember Grace putting on a big flowery Ralph Lauren dress, 194 00:11:38,030 --> 00:11:42,576 and then she put a flannel shirt over top or something, 195 00:11:42,660 --> 00:11:45,162 and then, like, boots and she said, 196 00:11:46,038 --> 00:11:47,415 "Ralph Lauren's gonna kill me." 197 00:11:48,082 --> 00:11:49,667 But she did it anyway! 198 00:11:51,752 --> 00:11:54,505 [Coddington] It was grunge and it was taken from grunge 199 00:11:55,172 --> 00:11:57,508 but it was still quite chic. 200 00:11:59,927 --> 00:12:03,305 [Anna Wintour] When Grace is on a mission, she is on a mission. 201 00:12:03,389 --> 00:12:07,601 I mean, that was part of why I felt so lucky to have her at Vogue 202 00:12:07,685 --> 00:12:10,354 because she did have an eye that I don't pretend to have. 203 00:12:10,438 --> 00:12:13,858 And she saw things that many of us didn't see 204 00:12:13,941 --> 00:12:15,985 and she saw them first. 205 00:12:16,777 --> 00:12:20,281 [Coddington] To suddenly be presented with this look 206 00:12:20,364 --> 00:12:22,658 must've been quite shocking for her, 207 00:12:22,742 --> 00:12:25,119 but she trusts her team. 208 00:12:25,202 --> 00:12:29,540 So if they bring it to her with enough conviction, 209 00:12:31,041 --> 00:12:32,251 she will print it. 210 00:12:36,672 --> 00:12:40,634 I pulled out Vogue and started looking through it, 211 00:12:40,718 --> 00:12:45,222 and I just was mesmerised by these images. 212 00:12:47,057 --> 00:12:51,604 We saw how they were kinda picking up on this pop cultural change with grunge. 213 00:12:53,606 --> 00:12:57,568 I think that when you have Steven Meisel presenting grunge, 214 00:12:57,651 --> 00:13:01,447 you're presenting it in a very, very sophisticated way. 215 00:13:02,782 --> 00:13:04,617 [Enninful] One of my favourite fashion stories ever, 216 00:13:04,700 --> 00:13:09,163 you had all the hallmarks of grunge, the plaid, 217 00:13:09,246 --> 00:13:13,000 the woolly hats, the striped sweaters, 218 00:13:13,083 --> 00:13:16,170 but you had supermodels modelling and I'd never seen that before. 219 00:13:16,253 --> 00:13:18,380 It showed that, "Oh, my God, 220 00:13:18,464 --> 00:13:22,218 "what had been happening in London had now gone mainstream." 221 00:13:26,931 --> 00:13:31,268 I thought if Vogue can do grunge, why can't i-D magazine do supermodels? 222 00:13:32,228 --> 00:13:33,896 "Oh, my God, let's do a Naomi cover." 223 00:13:35,397 --> 00:13:39,568 We met, instantly we bonded, it was like Naomi's my kindred spirit. 224 00:13:39,652 --> 00:13:44,782 She had curly hair and I thought, "Oh, my God, how perfect." 225 00:13:46,075 --> 00:13:50,329 I was in my Whitney Houston phase and I wanted that bodyguard haircut. 226 00:13:51,121 --> 00:13:52,706 [Enninful] Even though we were the same age, 227 00:13:52,790 --> 00:13:55,209 she was a supermodel and she was the one with the money, 228 00:13:55,292 --> 00:13:59,088 so she would have to buy the food, sometimes we'd make her pay for the van. 229 00:14:00,548 --> 00:14:03,759 There was no budget, so we would shoot after nine o'clock at night. 230 00:14:03,843 --> 00:14:07,638 I think I had to do my own makeup, sleep at a friend's place. 231 00:14:07,721 --> 00:14:10,724 But we did it because it was Edward. 232 00:14:14,562 --> 00:14:16,689 [Enninful] That cover really was very important 233 00:14:16,772 --> 00:14:18,691 because she was a superstar. 234 00:14:20,693 --> 00:14:22,361 Then we tried Helena Christensen. 235 00:14:23,696 --> 00:14:25,906 Then we tried Christy Turlington. 236 00:14:25,990 --> 00:14:27,741 The readers loved it. 237 00:14:27,825 --> 00:14:28,826 We got so many letters, 238 00:14:28,909 --> 00:14:31,537 this is back in the day, where you got letters from readers 239 00:14:31,620 --> 00:14:32,872 and I thought, "Okay." 240 00:14:33,414 --> 00:14:35,541 [Linda Evangelista] Doing the i-D, I felt so cool, 241 00:14:36,083 --> 00:14:37,501 I was like, "Oh, my God." 242 00:14:37,585 --> 00:14:39,837 I'm like... I felt, like, relevant. 243 00:14:40,796 --> 00:14:43,048 [Valletta] We got to have fun and experiment, 244 00:14:43,132 --> 00:14:45,926 and you get to do things that you don't normally get to do. 245 00:14:47,303 --> 00:14:50,347 All these models knew that, for longevity, 246 00:14:50,431 --> 00:14:53,309 and for cool, they had to work for i-D. 247 00:14:53,392 --> 00:14:55,144 [man] Any other hassles on cover shoots? 248 00:14:56,145 --> 00:14:58,480 I think the worst hassle's when the girl can't wink. 249 00:14:59,106 --> 00:15:03,611 The i-D winking, yeah, of course, who can forget that? 250 00:15:06,614 --> 00:15:08,824 I don't know who came up with that idea for the wink, 251 00:15:08,908 --> 00:15:12,912 but it's cursed us all forever because most people can't wink. 252 00:15:12,995 --> 00:15:14,288 Kate Moss can't wink. 253 00:15:15,164 --> 00:15:20,002 If you look at all Kate's covers... So many of the models couldn't wink. 254 00:15:20,085 --> 00:15:21,086 I can't. 255 00:15:21,170 --> 00:15:22,171 [laughs] 256 00:15:22,254 --> 00:15:24,840 Literally, it's one of my like, 257 00:15:24,924 --> 00:15:28,427 my whole face, I can't do it, I cannot do a glamorous wink. 258 00:15:28,510 --> 00:15:30,721 So I did a few like this. 259 00:15:31,847 --> 00:15:35,225 It was always like, "No, an i-D cover," but, of course, historically, 260 00:15:35,309 --> 00:15:39,355 I'd always thought they were the coolest, so yeah, I loved doing them. 261 00:15:39,438 --> 00:15:41,273 [camera shutter clicking] 262 00:15:41,357 --> 00:15:44,276 Look straight. Yeah, yeah and then try to wink. 263 00:15:45,361 --> 00:15:47,780 [Kasterine] I really loved working at i-D because, of course, 264 00:15:47,863 --> 00:15:51,951 that gave us a platform to create shoots that were really personal 265 00:15:52,034 --> 00:15:55,496 and, you know, that felt very new at the time. 266 00:15:57,957 --> 00:16:00,793 But then I got a call from someone at Vogue 267 00:16:00,876 --> 00:16:05,422 and she said, "We need a lingerie story, would you be interested in doing it?" 268 00:16:07,216 --> 00:16:13,263 Now, a normal lingerie shoot that would appear in Vogue in 1993 269 00:16:13,347 --> 00:16:15,849 would be more often than not 270 00:16:15,933 --> 00:16:19,937 shot on someone like Claudia in a very expensive location, 271 00:16:20,020 --> 00:16:23,691 wandering down a beach, looking really suntanned and gorgeous. 272 00:16:24,692 --> 00:16:26,360 I thought this maybe could be a moment 273 00:16:26,443 --> 00:16:29,530 where I could do something completely different to that. 274 00:16:29,613 --> 00:16:31,865 So I said, "I'd love to do that, 275 00:16:31,949 --> 00:16:34,326 "but could I shoot with this photographer, Corinne Day?" 276 00:16:34,410 --> 00:16:36,328 Strangely, they said yes. 277 00:16:36,412 --> 00:16:40,082 They didn't know what they were getting, and I said, "Can we work with Kate Moss?" 278 00:16:42,751 --> 00:16:44,545 [Moss] I just felt really good, 279 00:16:44,628 --> 00:16:48,882 the whole shoot, I felt really comfortable and it was in my flat in London. 280 00:16:50,175 --> 00:16:51,885 You know, it wasn't glamorous. 281 00:16:52,720 --> 00:16:54,596 Our bedroom was, like, a bedsit. [chuckles] 282 00:16:56,181 --> 00:16:58,434 That's the kind of fashion I liked. 283 00:16:59,226 --> 00:17:00,978 It was much simpler. 284 00:17:03,647 --> 00:17:06,191 I loved creating the images with them. 285 00:17:07,484 --> 00:17:09,903 [Kasterine] She's sort of, you know, jumping around her bedroom 286 00:17:09,987 --> 00:17:13,782 and she's got her neon pink pants on, 287 00:17:13,866 --> 00:17:16,618 her hair's just loosely in a ponytail, 288 00:17:16,702 --> 00:17:18,245 and she hasn't got much makeup on. 289 00:17:19,288 --> 00:17:20,956 But it's actually just very normal. 290 00:17:21,915 --> 00:17:23,876 She's just a teenage girl in her bedroom. 291 00:17:26,795 --> 00:17:31,216 I think Vogue had the foresight to understand 292 00:17:31,300 --> 00:17:34,428 that this was an important shoot to publish, 293 00:17:34,511 --> 00:17:38,348 because it was something special and new and different. 294 00:17:39,558 --> 00:17:44,188 I mean, obviously Vogue wanted it but the public were not ready. 295 00:17:48,817 --> 00:17:52,946 [Kasterine] Immediately they were completely vilified 296 00:17:53,030 --> 00:17:54,323 and slammed in the press, 297 00:17:55,449 --> 00:17:59,953 and they were absolutely appalled, is the word I think I'll use. 298 00:18:00,037 --> 00:18:01,538 [laughs] 299 00:18:03,582 --> 00:18:06,835 Perhaps we'd underestimated how that look 300 00:18:06,919 --> 00:18:10,255 that we had been shooting for magazines like i-D, 301 00:18:10,339 --> 00:18:13,175 that had, in our minds, been quite normal, 302 00:18:13,258 --> 00:18:15,928 but if you transfer that into the context of Vogue, 303 00:18:16,011 --> 00:18:19,598 then it becomes something very different. 304 00:18:20,516 --> 00:18:24,561 That look, very undernourished-looking model... 305 00:18:26,021 --> 00:18:27,856 made people uncomfortable. 306 00:18:27,940 --> 00:18:31,068 I detest it, I really do. 307 00:18:31,151 --> 00:18:37,449 I... I think that it's an unhealthy thing to promote, that look, 308 00:18:38,492 --> 00:18:40,702 and I don't see any reason for it. 309 00:18:43,122 --> 00:18:45,999 [Goodman] My initial reaction to the shoot with Kate, 310 00:18:46,083 --> 00:18:48,794 those images certainly did not look healthy, 311 00:18:49,503 --> 00:18:51,630 they certainly did not look well-fed 312 00:18:51,713 --> 00:18:53,382 and this is gonna become a trend? 313 00:18:53,465 --> 00:18:54,508 This is gonna be something 314 00:18:54,591 --> 00:18:57,970 that, you know, we're gonna embrace and endorse? 315 00:18:59,304 --> 00:19:01,890 [Moss] I think because I was just skinny 316 00:19:01,974 --> 00:19:04,309 and people weren't used to seeing skinny. 317 00:19:04,393 --> 00:19:09,815 But if I'd been more buxom, it wouldn't have been such a big deal. 318 00:19:09,898 --> 00:19:14,403 You know, it's just my body shape was different from the models before me. 319 00:19:15,362 --> 00:19:19,199 [Enninful] The whole thing just blew up and that piece in Vogue 320 00:19:19,283 --> 00:19:22,161 really triggered a huge amount of hysteria, 321 00:19:22,828 --> 00:19:24,872 what became known as heroin chic. 322 00:19:26,373 --> 00:19:30,043 [Kasterine] The label "heroin chic" was just sort of appalling to us. 323 00:19:30,127 --> 00:19:34,756 But if you look at the broader picture of what was happening in music and film, 324 00:19:34,840 --> 00:19:38,427 you've got films like Trainspotting, which, of course, 325 00:19:38,510 --> 00:19:43,223 was dealing with the horrific subject matter of kids addicted to heroin. 326 00:19:43,307 --> 00:19:46,560 We all know what Courtney and Kurt were up to, 327 00:19:46,643 --> 00:19:51,732 but you'd never get away with labelling somebody or someone's work like that now, 328 00:19:51,815 --> 00:19:53,483 you know, it's slanderous in some ways. 329 00:19:54,902 --> 00:19:58,780 They were saying, "It's Kate Moss's fault, it's Kate Moss, you know, she's, 330 00:19:58,864 --> 00:20:01,491 "you know, glamourising heroin chic." 331 00:20:01,575 --> 00:20:05,120 People's parents would come up to me and say, "My daughter's anorexic." 332 00:20:05,204 --> 00:20:07,539 You know, it was awful. 333 00:20:08,665 --> 00:20:11,752 There was one time that my mum called me and said, 334 00:20:11,835 --> 00:20:15,881 "Darling, I've just read that you're a heroin addict, is that true?" 335 00:20:16,840 --> 00:20:22,679 Many of us at Vogue worried about "heroin chic" or anorexia, 336 00:20:22,763 --> 00:20:27,351 all the things that are associated with that look 337 00:20:27,434 --> 00:20:32,648 and it rocked, not only the industry, but it got to such a fever pitch, 338 00:20:32,731 --> 00:20:35,484 and I remember physically being in the White House 339 00:20:35,567 --> 00:20:37,986 when the Clinton administration took it on. 340 00:20:38,070 --> 00:20:41,573 We now see in college campuses and neighbourhoods 341 00:20:41,657 --> 00:20:44,159 heroin becoming increasingly the drug of choice, 342 00:20:44,243 --> 00:20:47,037 and fashion leaders are now admitting 343 00:20:47,120 --> 00:20:51,041 that images projected in fashion photos in the last few years 344 00:20:51,124 --> 00:20:54,461 have made heroin addiction seem glamorous and sexy and cool. 345 00:20:55,087 --> 00:20:58,548 You do not need to glamourise addiction to sell clothes. 346 00:21:02,886 --> 00:21:05,264 Heroin chic did a lot of damage to London, you know, 347 00:21:05,347 --> 00:21:07,557 all of a sudden we were seen as careless, 348 00:21:07,641 --> 00:21:11,728 we were seen as radical, but that wasn't the intention. 349 00:21:12,813 --> 00:21:16,942 The intention was young people photographing other young people 350 00:21:17,025 --> 00:21:19,194 to show the world what was happening in London. 351 00:21:19,278 --> 00:21:21,571 [Big Ben chiming] 352 00:21:28,996 --> 00:21:31,832 [♪ dancey rock music playing] 353 00:21:31,915 --> 00:21:34,209 [Enninful] There was such a great energy in the city. 354 00:21:36,712 --> 00:21:39,631 There was so much happening, so much bubbling under. 355 00:21:40,632 --> 00:21:44,177 You had all these incredible designers coming out of Saint Martins. 356 00:21:45,304 --> 00:21:46,513 Lee McQueen. 357 00:21:47,723 --> 00:21:49,016 Hussein Chalayan. 358 00:21:49,766 --> 00:21:50,976 Stella McCartney. 359 00:21:51,935 --> 00:21:55,480 Then you had all these incredible artists coming out of Goldsmiths. 360 00:21:56,565 --> 00:21:59,276 [McCartney] Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, 361 00:21:59,359 --> 00:22:02,654 we were all just in the same room at the same time. 362 00:22:03,905 --> 00:22:05,866 There was this freshness 363 00:22:05,949 --> 00:22:10,120 and recklessness of breaking of boundaries. 364 00:22:11,204 --> 00:22:14,541 Musicians, the artists, the models, the photographers, 365 00:22:14,624 --> 00:22:19,129 everyone would hang out together and influence each other. 366 00:22:20,172 --> 00:22:22,716 We were, like, going to museums together, 367 00:22:22,799 --> 00:22:25,719 we were going to all the films, we were going to all the gigs, 368 00:22:25,802 --> 00:22:29,139 Blur and Jarvis and, you know, Oasis. 369 00:22:29,222 --> 00:22:33,560 Like, we were all at the same things, and we were going to all the clubs. 370 00:22:35,187 --> 00:22:39,191 I was going, of course, to the sex clubs in London. [laughs] 371 00:22:39,274 --> 00:22:40,901 Also, "No sex we are British," 372 00:22:40,984 --> 00:22:43,612 it's not true, it's not the reality, you know? 373 00:22:44,196 --> 00:22:46,990 It was just buzzing, it was like London was alive. 374 00:22:52,204 --> 00:22:53,538 Hi, I'm Hamish Bowles, 375 00:22:53,622 --> 00:22:56,249 I'm the European Editor at Large for American Vogue. 376 00:22:56,333 --> 00:22:58,752 I hope you can hear me over the din. Ahem. 377 00:22:58,835 --> 00:23:01,129 I'm in London for fashion week and I... 378 00:23:02,255 --> 00:23:06,009 I had young London thing to do for Vogue. 379 00:23:07,511 --> 00:23:09,513 Someone who had been saying 380 00:23:09,596 --> 00:23:11,807 "This young designer called Alexander McQueen, 381 00:23:11,890 --> 00:23:13,558 "you've got to see him." 382 00:23:14,643 --> 00:23:19,272 So we went up to this derelict warehouse. 383 00:23:19,356 --> 00:23:22,442 -[people chattering indistinctly] -[birds squawking] 384 00:23:22,526 --> 00:23:25,278 [Bowles] It was dark, enclosed room. 385 00:23:26,029 --> 00:23:28,240 There was the sound of birds. 386 00:23:29,866 --> 00:23:33,870 [bell ringing] 387 00:23:41,044 --> 00:23:43,046 [Goodman] Lee McQueen was a genius. 388 00:23:44,297 --> 00:23:46,633 I mean, he was an enormous, enormous talent. 389 00:23:49,678 --> 00:23:51,680 First of all, he was a master tailor 390 00:23:53,056 --> 00:23:57,227 and then the fact that he really birthed something in London 391 00:23:57,310 --> 00:23:58,895 that was absolutely unique. 392 00:24:00,188 --> 00:24:05,777 He was playing with the duality of London, the wild and sophisticated. 393 00:24:07,612 --> 00:24:10,449 McQueen liked to provoke and to shock 394 00:24:10,532 --> 00:24:14,202 and to have people talking about him, it was part of who he was. 395 00:24:14,870 --> 00:24:16,288 [woman] What do you think? 396 00:24:16,371 --> 00:24:18,123 Um... I thought it was... 397 00:24:19,332 --> 00:24:22,919 rather wonderful, I must say, sort of exhilarating to watch. 398 00:24:23,003 --> 00:24:25,672 Middle America might not be quite ready for this. 399 00:24:27,507 --> 00:24:31,136 By the time it ended, I was in shock. 400 00:24:31,219 --> 00:24:37,934 It was something incredible that I hadn't seen before, actually ever. 401 00:24:40,437 --> 00:24:44,232 [Katy England] I think Lee was very honest and very real 402 00:24:44,316 --> 00:24:48,487 and he didn't put on airs and graces for people. 403 00:24:49,571 --> 00:24:51,072 [McQueen] Well, did it piss you off? 404 00:24:51,156 --> 00:24:54,117 -[journalist] No. -It should've done, that was the idea. 405 00:24:54,201 --> 00:24:56,203 His vision was quite dark. 406 00:24:56,286 --> 00:24:58,497 [reporter] McQueen has always been known as a rebel 407 00:24:58,580 --> 00:25:02,167 and he sent his models staggering down the catwalk in torn clothes, 408 00:25:02,250 --> 00:25:04,794 looking like they'd just been violated. 409 00:25:04,878 --> 00:25:06,755 [Enninful] The journalists were outraged, 410 00:25:06,838 --> 00:25:09,508 but the kids were loving Lee McQueen, you know, 411 00:25:09,591 --> 00:25:13,345 youth will always love something they can relate to, 412 00:25:13,428 --> 00:25:18,183 something they see as anti-establishment and Lee was that. 413 00:25:18,266 --> 00:25:22,521 Well, I've always been a bit of a rebel with a cause. [chuckles] 414 00:25:22,604 --> 00:25:23,813 [man] Which was? 415 00:25:23,897 --> 00:25:27,442 Which is to destroy the fashion industry at large. 416 00:25:27,526 --> 00:25:29,986 -[man] From within. -From within, at the core. 417 00:25:31,112 --> 00:25:34,074 [Enninful] Everyone thinks of Lee McQueen as this dark person, 418 00:25:35,784 --> 00:25:39,162 but I've never laughed with anyone more than I did with him. 419 00:25:39,746 --> 00:25:43,750 [England] When I first met Lee, he came up to me and he said, 420 00:25:43,833 --> 00:25:47,379 "Are you Katy England? I'd like you to style my next show." 421 00:25:49,047 --> 00:25:54,803 I was young, and I was excited, and it felt like just an instant fit. 422 00:25:55,387 --> 00:25:56,972 Camera up, please. 423 00:25:57,472 --> 00:25:59,641 [England] Lee was making the clothes himself. 424 00:25:59,724 --> 00:26:01,935 We didn't have money for a fitting model. 425 00:26:02,644 --> 00:26:07,440 I would try on all the clothes and Lee would make alterations on me. 426 00:26:07,524 --> 00:26:10,485 My first Santa's sleigh girl. 427 00:26:10,569 --> 00:26:13,321 [both laugh] 428 00:26:17,033 --> 00:26:20,912 When Lee left Saint Martins, he didn't have any money at all. 429 00:26:21,871 --> 00:26:26,042 He was signing on for unemployment benefit as Lee McQueen. 430 00:26:26,126 --> 00:26:29,129 He was very concerned that people from the dole office 431 00:26:29,212 --> 00:26:31,089 would see him in the press 432 00:26:31,172 --> 00:26:34,926 and that he wouldn't get his unemployment benefit, 433 00:26:35,010 --> 00:26:37,470 hence the name he put on his first collection 434 00:26:37,554 --> 00:26:40,807 was Alexander McQueen, not Lee McQueen. 435 00:26:40,890 --> 00:26:43,143 [woman] Did they want you to be a designer? 436 00:26:43,226 --> 00:26:45,770 No, my dad wanted me to be a plumber. 437 00:26:45,854 --> 00:26:48,231 But I got sort of mixed up with the costume, 438 00:26:48,315 --> 00:26:52,569 you know, the all-in-one just turned me on so much. [laughs] 439 00:26:52,652 --> 00:26:54,946 What I love about Lee was his eye for tailoring, 440 00:26:55,030 --> 00:26:59,284 his eye for proportion, you know, and he was always so knowledgeable, 441 00:26:59,367 --> 00:27:00,869 you know, of history, 442 00:27:00,952 --> 00:27:03,121 not just British history, but world history. 443 00:27:03,204 --> 00:27:04,372 I knew he had the talent, 444 00:27:04,456 --> 00:27:05,749 I knew he could take an idea 445 00:27:05,832 --> 00:27:08,918 and really, sort of, transform it into something magical. 446 00:27:10,211 --> 00:27:14,841 For me, the moment of the shift was the Dante show. 447 00:27:14,924 --> 00:27:18,720 I felt really that was the moment when people sort of took him seriously. 448 00:27:24,100 --> 00:27:26,311 It was chaos backstage. 449 00:27:26,394 --> 00:27:28,063 [people chattering indistinctly] 450 00:27:28,146 --> 00:27:30,732 [England] It was a really, really chaotic show 451 00:27:30,815 --> 00:27:33,485 because the collection had arrived so late. 452 00:27:33,568 --> 00:27:36,112 [people chattering indistinctly] 453 00:27:36,196 --> 00:27:39,199 And it wasn't like he had an awfully big fan club 454 00:27:39,282 --> 00:27:41,201 of fashion journalists at that time. 455 00:27:41,284 --> 00:27:44,037 The people are coming to see Alexander McQueen, for sure. 456 00:27:44,120 --> 00:27:47,082 Are they coming to laugh, to gawp, to walk out of here going, 457 00:27:47,165 --> 00:27:49,668 "Would you wear that crap?" "No, of course, I wouldn't." 458 00:27:49,751 --> 00:27:54,464 He thought it'd be a bit of fun to put a skeleton on the front row. 459 00:27:57,175 --> 00:28:02,389 He was just doing a little dig at the way the press had responded to him so far. 460 00:28:12,982 --> 00:28:15,485 [♪ chamber music playing] 461 00:28:16,069 --> 00:28:17,904 That was the first time I walked for Lee. 462 00:28:18,571 --> 00:28:20,281 It was a special show, that one. 463 00:28:22,742 --> 00:28:25,704 It was amazing, it was almost a spiritual experience actually. 464 00:28:29,124 --> 00:28:34,087 [Wintour] Everything was a bit perverse as well as quite, quite dark. 465 00:28:35,213 --> 00:28:38,800 I've always been drawn to English designers 466 00:28:38,883 --> 00:28:45,265 because they're so incredible at doing so much with so little. 467 00:28:45,348 --> 00:28:48,935 They seem to be able to pull things out of a paper bag 468 00:28:49,018 --> 00:28:52,313 and they're not worried about their investors, or their backers, 469 00:28:52,397 --> 00:28:53,398 they don't have any. 470 00:28:56,693 --> 00:28:58,737 [England] He had the antler horns. 471 00:29:00,405 --> 00:29:04,492 He had the masks, little Jesus figure on the nose. 472 00:29:05,410 --> 00:29:10,540 It was just a really lovely balance between something that felt polished, 473 00:29:10,623 --> 00:29:13,501 but it still had his raw energy. 474 00:29:15,879 --> 00:29:19,716 [Enninful] What Lee showed the world was that London fashion could be rebellious, 475 00:29:19,799 --> 00:29:24,387 it could be exciting and wild, but also sophisticated. 476 00:29:24,471 --> 00:29:25,722 The world took notice. 477 00:29:25,805 --> 00:29:29,058 Right at this moment in time, Alexander McQueen is possibly 478 00:29:29,142 --> 00:29:32,812 the most exciting, outrageous talent that British fashion has. 479 00:29:33,646 --> 00:29:35,565 In America, they'd heard about him 480 00:29:35,648 --> 00:29:38,610 and they wanted to bring the show to New York. 481 00:29:40,111 --> 00:29:42,155 And it was just chaotic. 482 00:29:42,238 --> 00:29:43,406 [people chattering indistinctly] 483 00:29:43,490 --> 00:29:47,160 [woman] Oh, man! What a scene at the Alexander McQueen show 484 00:29:47,243 --> 00:29:49,871 in front of an abandoned old synagogue. 485 00:29:49,954 --> 00:29:52,582 The show in London was in a church that was still in use, 486 00:29:52,665 --> 00:29:56,503 but the synagogue is not in use any more, so it's gonna be kind of crazy, 487 00:29:56,586 --> 00:29:58,463 a bit more madder than the London show. 488 00:29:58,546 --> 00:30:01,508 [woman laughing] Because he wants to climb over the car! 489 00:30:01,591 --> 00:30:04,260 [England] So many people wanted to come and see it. 490 00:30:05,470 --> 00:30:08,139 We hadn't quite expected that. 491 00:30:08,223 --> 00:30:10,266 [man] We are packed wall to wall! 492 00:30:10,350 --> 00:30:12,602 We have closed the place down now. 493 00:30:12,685 --> 00:30:14,938 It's dead. Have a nice night. 494 00:30:15,021 --> 00:30:17,565 The American production team were panicking 495 00:30:17,649 --> 00:30:19,901 because they had never seen anything like that before. 496 00:30:20,527 --> 00:30:22,445 It was actually quite scary. 497 00:30:24,739 --> 00:30:28,535 Rumour has it that there was a problem getting Anna Wintour through the door. 498 00:30:28,618 --> 00:30:32,497 There are a lot of angry people out there who we couldn't get into your show. 499 00:30:32,580 --> 00:30:34,249 So what do you say to that? 500 00:30:35,208 --> 00:30:37,627 -Sorry! -[both laugh] 501 00:30:38,378 --> 00:30:41,214 And I said to him, "Lee, Anna Wintour's outside the door 502 00:30:41,297 --> 00:30:44,551 "with André Leon Talley and Grace Coddington and she can't get in." 503 00:30:45,635 --> 00:30:49,097 And he was like, "Oh, fuck 'em." He... He didn't care. [laughs] 504 00:30:49,180 --> 00:30:52,016 I was like, "Oh, my God, what are you doing?" 505 00:30:52,100 --> 00:30:55,854 It's like, nobody would do that but Lee. 506 00:30:55,937 --> 00:30:58,940 [McQueen] When I'm paying £30,000 to do a show, 507 00:30:59,023 --> 00:31:00,650 I will do whatever I like. 508 00:31:01,776 --> 00:31:06,072 Because it's my £30,000 and my half hour to do anything I like. 509 00:31:06,155 --> 00:31:08,491 The synagogue was very difficult to get into, 510 00:31:08,575 --> 00:31:12,787 but I did get in, and yes, he rocked the boat, 511 00:31:12,871 --> 00:31:16,875 but I think that sense of slightly annoying people, 512 00:31:17,959 --> 00:31:20,336 he was into that. 513 00:31:22,297 --> 00:31:25,216 He was incredible, Lee, he was such a laugh, 514 00:31:25,300 --> 00:31:27,302 he was so cheeky, he was so talented. 515 00:31:27,385 --> 00:31:31,180 I went to some of his shows and it definitely cemented the fact 516 00:31:31,264 --> 00:31:35,143 that I want to be a fashion designer, and so I started looking at, um, colleges 517 00:31:35,226 --> 00:31:38,980 to study fashion design and there was only one. 518 00:31:39,063 --> 00:31:41,399 This week we're coming to you from Central Saint Martins 519 00:31:41,482 --> 00:31:44,944 in Charing Cross Road, one of London's leading fashion colleges. 520 00:31:47,113 --> 00:31:48,865 Everyone had gone to Saint Martins. 521 00:31:48,948 --> 00:31:50,867 Galliano had gone there, Lee was there. 522 00:31:51,868 --> 00:31:54,621 I mean, I really wanted to get into Saint Martins, 523 00:31:55,496 --> 00:31:57,248 but I didn't love it when I got there. 524 00:31:59,834 --> 00:32:05,465 Because the weirder and more wild and crazy your creations were, 525 00:32:05,840 --> 00:32:08,801 the better you were at being a designer. 526 00:32:10,053 --> 00:32:13,890 If you did anything that was remotely kind of normal, 527 00:32:14,682 --> 00:32:16,476 you were like the biggest loser in the world. 528 00:32:16,559 --> 00:32:21,439 So I'd spent two and a half years creating dresses out of spaghetti 529 00:32:21,522 --> 00:32:23,358 and like, I mean, none of it was wearable. 530 00:32:25,068 --> 00:32:27,111 And so when it came to my degree show, I was like, 531 00:32:27,195 --> 00:32:30,365 "Oh. Am I brave enough to do what I wanna do? 532 00:32:30,448 --> 00:32:31,950 "Like, have I actually got the balls 533 00:32:32,033 --> 00:32:35,036 "to do something that's really quite normal?" 534 00:32:35,119 --> 00:32:36,996 [people chattering indistinctly] 535 00:32:37,538 --> 00:32:40,249 [McCartney] I was obsessed with antique fabric and antique lace, 536 00:32:40,333 --> 00:32:41,918 basically vintage clothing. 537 00:32:42,502 --> 00:32:46,089 And so I was like, "I wanna make those kind of clothes, 538 00:32:46,172 --> 00:32:48,424 "but I wanna be able to wear them, modernise them." 539 00:32:48,508 --> 00:32:51,010 [announcer] Stella McCartney fashion designs. 540 00:32:51,844 --> 00:32:53,846 [♪ techno music playing] 541 00:32:55,848 --> 00:32:58,726 We used to go to the graduate shows, we were all very excited. 542 00:32:58,810 --> 00:33:00,895 There was a lot of hype around Stella McCartney. 543 00:33:04,857 --> 00:33:07,944 And Stella presented a collection that was quite classic, 544 00:33:08,027 --> 00:33:11,990 very female friendly and featured Naomi and Kate. 545 00:33:15,076 --> 00:33:17,328 [McCartney] All the other students were choosing their models, 546 00:33:17,412 --> 00:33:19,038 then they were getting their mates. 547 00:33:19,122 --> 00:33:21,582 I had mates, but my mates were the supermodels. 548 00:33:22,542 --> 00:33:24,752 I was like, "Everyone's gonna hate me if I do that." 549 00:33:24,836 --> 00:33:27,255 And I just thought, "You know what? Sod it." 550 00:33:27,338 --> 00:33:31,592 Like, just like, "Life's too short and you're genuinely my mates." 551 00:33:31,676 --> 00:33:33,261 [woman] Naomi, why are you here? 552 00:33:33,344 --> 00:33:37,598 I'm here to support Stella McCartney in her graduation. 553 00:33:37,682 --> 00:33:41,019 When she called me, she said, "It's my graduation 554 00:33:41,686 --> 00:33:44,856 "and I really would love you girls to be a part of it." 555 00:33:44,939 --> 00:33:48,568 So we flew to London to do the graduation, 556 00:33:48,651 --> 00:33:51,404 and I don't think anyone's ever had a graduation like that. 557 00:33:51,487 --> 00:33:55,199 We were just hanging out in, like, Notting Hill, 558 00:33:55,283 --> 00:33:58,578 going to the same bars or restaurants or whatever 559 00:33:58,661 --> 00:34:02,248 and I didn't know she was a McCartney. 560 00:34:02,331 --> 00:34:07,003 And then I saw her driving around in a Mercedes and I was like, 561 00:34:07,086 --> 00:34:09,589 "She's at college, how can she afford that?" 562 00:34:09,672 --> 00:34:11,049 And then she told me, 563 00:34:11,132 --> 00:34:14,135 and then she asked me to do her graduate show. 564 00:34:15,011 --> 00:34:16,262 Stella's a friend of mine so, 565 00:34:16,345 --> 00:34:18,473 and she was doing a show, so she asked me to do it. 566 00:34:19,057 --> 00:34:21,517 Lots of important designers have come out of Saint Martins 567 00:34:21,601 --> 00:34:26,022 and some huge designers in the future will come out from this show. 568 00:34:26,105 --> 00:34:29,192 Those girls were the hottest girls on the planet. 569 00:34:29,275 --> 00:34:32,695 They were doing every show in every city. 570 00:34:33,571 --> 00:34:37,241 And they did a little college, you know, fashion show. 571 00:34:38,284 --> 00:34:41,245 That, for me, was like, it was amazing. 572 00:34:45,541 --> 00:34:48,628 [Campbell] I've never seen any graduate from Saint Martins 573 00:34:48,711 --> 00:34:51,506 have their collection on the front cover 574 00:34:51,589 --> 00:34:53,549 of every single newspaper. 575 00:34:56,010 --> 00:34:58,930 [Enninful] A lot of students were like, "We don't have Stella's background, 576 00:34:59,013 --> 00:35:00,890 "we don't have Stella's connections." 577 00:35:00,973 --> 00:35:03,810 So Stella, from the beginning, even though that was great for her, 578 00:35:03,893 --> 00:35:06,312 also suffered a huge backlash about privilege. 579 00:35:07,146 --> 00:35:10,983 As the child of such famous people, you know, it became this whole drama. 580 00:35:11,067 --> 00:35:14,112 I was like, "Ahhh! Get me out of here!" [laughs] 581 00:35:15,988 --> 00:35:18,032 There was a lot of hype around Stella McCartney, 582 00:35:18,908 --> 00:35:22,745 but there was so much talent in London at the time 583 00:35:22,829 --> 00:35:25,832 and British designers were in demand everywhere. 584 00:35:32,046 --> 00:35:36,968 I was already installed in Paris at Givenchy. 585 00:35:37,051 --> 00:35:42,140 And then I got the phone call from the company president, 586 00:35:43,057 --> 00:35:46,269 which made me nervous because it was a Friday afternoon 587 00:35:46,352 --> 00:35:49,230 and you don't normally get invited to Mr Arnault's office 588 00:35:49,313 --> 00:35:50,815 on a Friday afternoon. 589 00:35:52,817 --> 00:35:54,986 I thought, well, I tried my best at Givenchy, 590 00:35:55,069 --> 00:35:57,613 maybe it just didn't work out, I'm not ready for it, whatever. 591 00:35:58,489 --> 00:36:01,033 But no, he then asked me if I would like 592 00:36:01,117 --> 00:36:03,870 to be the artistic director at the house of Dior. 593 00:36:05,037 --> 00:36:07,206 [reporter] John Galliano is bringing his talents 594 00:36:07,290 --> 00:36:08,374 to Christian Dior, 595 00:36:08,457 --> 00:36:11,961 an international standard setter for style and elegance. 596 00:36:12,044 --> 00:36:14,589 I never dreamt of going to Dior, that was very... 597 00:36:14,672 --> 00:36:16,799 No. No, no, no. 598 00:36:17,383 --> 00:36:19,093 It's the greatest house in the world 599 00:36:19,177 --> 00:36:22,388 and every fashion student dreams of being a little part of it, 600 00:36:22,471 --> 00:36:25,850 but to be given the reins of the house is just something 601 00:36:25,933 --> 00:36:28,644 that I would never believed would happen. 602 00:36:28,728 --> 00:36:30,855 It was an amazing moment for London. 603 00:36:30,938 --> 00:36:37,111 Our designers were being hand-picked to head these storied French houses. 604 00:36:38,279 --> 00:36:40,448 [reporter] And it's not a one-man revolution. 605 00:36:40,531 --> 00:36:42,992 Alexander McQueen, who will take over from Galliano 606 00:36:43,075 --> 00:36:45,703 as Givenchy's top designer is British too. 607 00:36:47,121 --> 00:36:48,831 When Lee was offered the job at Givenchy, 608 00:36:49,957 --> 00:36:51,334 he was 27-years-old. 609 00:36:53,878 --> 00:36:56,380 Such an opportunity comes along once in a lifetime. 610 00:37:01,677 --> 00:37:04,055 Lee really went for it. 611 00:37:04,931 --> 00:37:07,683 You know, he didn't falter with that decision. 612 00:37:08,267 --> 00:37:11,103 Catapulted onto an international stage. 613 00:37:12,730 --> 00:37:15,399 [McQueen] I love working for Givenchy, I mean, I love the ateliers. 614 00:37:15,483 --> 00:37:17,068 The people are really lovely. 615 00:37:17,151 --> 00:37:20,863 You know, it's hard work, but life's hard work anyway. 616 00:37:20,947 --> 00:37:23,616 So, you know, and if you're dedicated to work, 617 00:37:23,699 --> 00:37:25,076 it's never gonna be easy. 618 00:37:25,159 --> 00:37:26,619 [clapping] 619 00:37:28,246 --> 00:37:30,289 [Enninful] He was a working-class designer, 620 00:37:31,290 --> 00:37:33,084 so was John Galliano who was before him. 621 00:37:33,167 --> 00:37:37,338 They were these working-class kids in these ateliers of high society, 622 00:37:37,421 --> 00:37:39,757 British designers who took the fashion system 623 00:37:39,840 --> 00:37:41,008 and turned it upside down. 624 00:37:44,845 --> 00:37:49,642 I was in my little studio apartment in West London 625 00:37:49,725 --> 00:37:53,354 and people were starting to, like, wanna buy my clothes. 626 00:37:53,437 --> 00:37:57,650 I was selling to a couple of stores in Japan and in London 627 00:37:57,733 --> 00:38:00,736 and we were like just really busking it, like we didn't know 628 00:38:00,820 --> 00:38:03,698 how to do business, and I was like, "I don't know what I'm doing." 629 00:38:04,865 --> 00:38:06,075 Okay, definitely. 630 00:38:06,158 --> 00:38:09,954 And I remember just getting the phone call 631 00:38:10,037 --> 00:38:11,831 of the CEO of Chloé. 632 00:38:11,914 --> 00:38:14,875 The only reason I knew about it was my mum used to wear Chloé in the '70s. 633 00:38:14,959 --> 00:38:17,003 So when I was scouring through her wardrobe, 634 00:38:17,086 --> 00:38:19,505 I'd see this brand, Chloé, I loved it. It was beautiful. 635 00:38:20,840 --> 00:38:24,468 And they kind of asked me if I would be interested in going 636 00:38:24,552 --> 00:38:26,470 and being the creative director of the house, 637 00:38:27,388 --> 00:38:29,557 I was like, "What the hell are you talking about?" 638 00:38:29,640 --> 00:38:31,183 [engine whirring] 639 00:38:31,267 --> 00:38:35,313 [McCartney] It was like a big job and a lot of pressure. 640 00:38:36,063 --> 00:38:39,942 I was so overwhelmed, but it was a done deal. 641 00:38:40,026 --> 00:38:41,277 I mean, that was it. 642 00:38:42,653 --> 00:38:45,114 [reporter] She's never staged a major catwalk show, 643 00:38:45,197 --> 00:38:47,491 but her Chloé boss says she was the right person 644 00:38:47,575 --> 00:38:49,368 to replace Karl Lagerfeld. 645 00:38:49,452 --> 00:38:51,996 [people chattering indistinctly] 646 00:38:52,079 --> 00:38:55,166 Stella taking on Karl Lagerfeld's role at Chloé 647 00:38:55,249 --> 00:38:59,503 was almost like Little Red Riding Hood taking on the Big Bad Wolf. 648 00:39:01,756 --> 00:39:05,134 I don't feel that you can really tell the story of '90s fashion 649 00:39:05,217 --> 00:39:07,386 without telling the story of Karl Lagerfeld. 650 00:39:07,470 --> 00:39:10,514 [Bowles] I loved what Karl had been doing at Chloé, 651 00:39:10,598 --> 00:39:13,684 but he was also creative director for Chanel. 652 00:39:13,768 --> 00:39:16,312 [reporter] He has single-handedly made the name of Chanel 653 00:39:16,395 --> 00:39:20,858 wildly trendy again without jeopardising its status as a fashion classic. 654 00:39:20,941 --> 00:39:23,194 [Claudia Schiffer] He was a true genius, like Mozart, 655 00:39:23,277 --> 00:39:27,031 and he would often wake up to sketch in the middle of the night, for example, 656 00:39:27,114 --> 00:39:29,367 and I remember him sketching so rapidly, 657 00:39:29,450 --> 00:39:32,953 as if his hands could barely keep up with the ideas in his mind. 658 00:39:33,704 --> 00:39:37,083 His brain needed to be constantly at work. 659 00:39:37,166 --> 00:39:41,379 It's instinct. He drew ever since he was a child. 660 00:39:41,462 --> 00:39:42,922 That was his thing. 661 00:39:43,005 --> 00:39:44,715 I always was interested in fashion 662 00:39:44,799 --> 00:39:46,717 before I even knew fashion was called fashion. 663 00:39:46,801 --> 00:39:48,803 Karl's mind was exceptional. 664 00:39:49,387 --> 00:39:53,474 There wasn't anything that you could bring up 665 00:39:53,557 --> 00:39:56,644 that he wouldn't know everything about. 666 00:39:57,228 --> 00:40:02,149 He was not only a great designer, but he was also a philosopher, 667 00:40:02,233 --> 00:40:05,528 a poet, a writer, a photographer, 668 00:40:06,112 --> 00:40:10,616 a furniture designer, an architect, interior designer. 669 00:40:10,699 --> 00:40:14,245 He was so many things. You know, he was like an emperor. 670 00:40:15,788 --> 00:40:18,666 [Enninful] Karl Lagerfeld was unparalleled in the '90s. 671 00:40:21,085 --> 00:40:23,712 And for Stella, she had to navigate this world 672 00:40:23,796 --> 00:40:25,423 that she'd never encountered before. 673 00:40:27,550 --> 00:40:29,176 [McCartney] When I started at Chloé, 674 00:40:29,260 --> 00:40:31,804 Karl Lagerfeld did the most genius quote, I think, 675 00:40:31,887 --> 00:40:36,517 he said, "I knew they'd take a big name to fill my boots, 676 00:40:37,309 --> 00:40:41,272 "but I thought they'd use a big name in fashion, not music." 677 00:40:41,355 --> 00:40:43,941 And I was like, "Oof, bitch." 678 00:40:44,024 --> 00:40:45,234 [laughs] 679 00:40:45,317 --> 00:40:46,819 [people chattering indistinctly] 680 00:40:52,992 --> 00:40:54,869 [reporter] Stella McCartney couldn't have chosen 681 00:40:54,952 --> 00:40:56,829 a more dramatic location for her fashion show. 682 00:40:56,912 --> 00:40:58,164 This is the Paris Opera, 683 00:40:58,247 --> 00:41:02,334 and if you have a look around here, it really is the most opulent of places. 684 00:41:02,418 --> 00:41:04,420 My first show at Chloé, literally, I was like, 685 00:41:04,503 --> 00:41:06,005 "I don't know what's going on." 686 00:41:06,088 --> 00:41:09,925 They said, "You need to put down something like 80 looks," 687 00:41:10,009 --> 00:41:12,720 and there were thousands of people, and I was just like, "Okay." 688 00:41:14,054 --> 00:41:16,891 [Wintour] It was very difficult at the beginning for Stella. 689 00:41:16,974 --> 00:41:20,269 Maybe things had happened because of her surname. 690 00:41:20,352 --> 00:41:23,272 [reporter] When she took over at Chloé from Karl Lagerfeld, 691 00:41:23,355 --> 00:41:26,442 many said that at 25, Stella McCartney was too young, 692 00:41:26,525 --> 00:41:28,486 they said she got the job because of her dad. 693 00:41:29,278 --> 00:41:32,615 But she followed her creative instincts. 694 00:41:33,199 --> 00:41:35,784 "This is what I'm gonna do and this is who I am. 695 00:41:38,162 --> 00:41:40,080 "I'm not Karl Lagerfeld, I'm Stella McCartney." 696 00:41:40,164 --> 00:41:42,958 [♪ upbeat music playing] 697 00:42:00,142 --> 00:42:01,560 [Moss] And the clothes were beautiful. 698 00:42:01,644 --> 00:42:04,438 I know she was inspired a lot by her mother 699 00:42:04,522 --> 00:42:07,900 and her mum's wardrobe from the '70s and stuff, 700 00:42:07,983 --> 00:42:11,570 so she did do things that weren't so out there. 701 00:42:13,656 --> 00:42:15,157 But she knew what she was doing. 702 00:42:20,746 --> 00:42:22,081 Not only does she have a real talent, 703 00:42:22,164 --> 00:42:26,877 Stella has always been very clear and defined 704 00:42:26,961 --> 00:42:29,463 in what she wants and what she was doing. 705 00:42:29,547 --> 00:42:31,715 [clapping and cheering] 706 00:42:35,636 --> 00:42:37,304 [Alexander] She was an absolute triumph. 707 00:42:37,388 --> 00:42:40,140 I think that she'd foiled all the doubters 708 00:42:40,224 --> 00:42:42,977 and she sent down a collection that was so pretty 709 00:42:43,060 --> 00:42:45,813 so girlie, so romantic and so sexy 710 00:42:45,896 --> 00:42:48,065 that it just knocked spots off a lot of things. 711 00:42:48,148 --> 00:42:49,942 [cheering] 712 00:42:50,025 --> 00:42:52,069 I think they're beautiful clothes, very feminine 713 00:42:52,152 --> 00:42:54,238 and I think she's a very talented girl. 714 00:42:55,656 --> 00:42:57,992 It did really well. I mean, look, yeah it's true, 715 00:42:58,075 --> 00:43:01,203 there's no better revenge than just like kicking arse. 716 00:43:02,079 --> 00:43:06,083 And then Karl Lagerfeld very quickly retracted the comment 717 00:43:06,166 --> 00:43:10,796 and would spend sort of many a weekend saying, "Can I take your photo?" 718 00:43:10,879 --> 00:43:13,090 I'd be like, "No, because I'm getting on the Eurostar 719 00:43:13,173 --> 00:43:15,175 "and I'm going home, and riding my horse." 720 00:43:21,807 --> 00:43:24,852 London's young designers had conquered Paris. 721 00:43:24,935 --> 00:43:27,271 [people chattering indistinctly] 722 00:43:31,817 --> 00:43:36,405 [Bowles] But it was Princess Diana who offered the ultimate seal of approval. 723 00:43:37,823 --> 00:43:39,825 [people shouting indistinctly] 724 00:43:39,908 --> 00:43:44,496 I think all of us were so captivated 725 00:43:44,580 --> 00:43:48,542 and fascinated by Princess Diana. 726 00:43:50,544 --> 00:43:54,256 At that time, she was the most famous woman in the world. 727 00:43:57,843 --> 00:44:01,597 She was enjoying fashion and the spotlight 728 00:44:01,680 --> 00:44:05,517 that she put on, particularly, British designers. 729 00:44:07,269 --> 00:44:12,274 I remember one day, we all jumped into this old van and we went to London 730 00:44:13,150 --> 00:44:15,653 where we met Princess Diana. 731 00:44:17,237 --> 00:44:18,822 She'd been invited to the Met 732 00:44:19,907 --> 00:44:21,742 and she would wear one of my dresses. 733 00:44:23,369 --> 00:44:27,539 The Met Gala is the most influential red carpet in the world. 734 00:44:29,583 --> 00:44:31,669 It was like a blessing, I mean, wow. 735 00:44:32,836 --> 00:44:36,173 We went to Kensington Palace and discussed drawings 736 00:44:36,256 --> 00:44:39,677 and I was trying to push a pink, but she was not having it, "No, not pink." 737 00:44:39,760 --> 00:44:41,220 That was real, real fun. 738 00:44:43,097 --> 00:44:45,307 So we did the dress and subsequent fittings 739 00:44:45,391 --> 00:44:48,852 and it was beautifully done, you know, very kind of correct, 740 00:44:48,936 --> 00:44:51,480 you know, the corset, everything was correct. 741 00:44:53,691 --> 00:44:56,694 [car horn honking] 742 00:44:56,777 --> 00:44:58,529 [Galliano] Fast forward to the event 743 00:45:00,406 --> 00:45:02,491 and I just remember her getting out the car, 744 00:45:03,784 --> 00:45:04,910 I was like... [gasps] 745 00:45:06,412 --> 00:45:07,538 I couldn't believe it. 746 00:45:08,789 --> 00:45:10,791 She'd ripped the corset out. 747 00:45:13,043 --> 00:45:14,878 She didn't wanna wear the corset. 748 00:45:17,047 --> 00:45:20,050 She felt so liberated, she'd torn the corset out. 749 00:45:20,134 --> 00:45:24,555 The dress was much more sensuous. 750 00:45:28,225 --> 00:45:30,519 The cameras went mental. 751 00:45:30,602 --> 00:45:32,896 The paparazzi was blinding... 752 00:45:34,606 --> 00:45:37,443 which made the dress really bling and the jewels and everything. 753 00:45:38,485 --> 00:45:41,530 [Wintour] I don't think that anyone had worn Galliano for Dior 754 00:45:41,613 --> 00:45:46,118 on the red carpet at such an important moment before. 755 00:45:47,035 --> 00:45:49,997 It was a really amazing opportunity. 756 00:45:50,831 --> 00:45:55,252 [Bowles] It was like Diana had embraced the fashion rebels. 757 00:45:56,295 --> 00:45:59,631 I mean, wow, Diana was my first couture client. 758 00:46:01,759 --> 00:46:02,801 Great, you know? 759 00:46:05,012 --> 00:46:07,222 It just felt like a triumph of British fashion, 760 00:46:07,306 --> 00:46:09,975 it felt like a triumph of all the work we'd been doing in London. 761 00:46:11,685 --> 00:46:13,729 [Wintour] And so London became a place 762 00:46:13,812 --> 00:46:16,315 where you went to look for the best talent. 763 00:46:20,861 --> 00:46:25,032 [Galliano] Yes, there was an influx of British designers 764 00:46:25,115 --> 00:46:29,787 holding incredible positions in historic French houses. 765 00:46:29,870 --> 00:46:33,373 So it was kind of an electrifying time. 766 00:46:34,500 --> 00:46:36,418 [McCartney] We just would hang out. 767 00:46:37,669 --> 00:46:39,963 You know, Lee and I went out for dinner many times 768 00:46:40,047 --> 00:46:42,633 and I would do the same with John, 769 00:46:42,716 --> 00:46:46,428 and there was a moment there where we were kind of running the show, I would say. 770 00:46:47,137 --> 00:46:48,847 [people chattering indistinctly] 771 00:46:48,931 --> 00:46:50,432 [Bowles] Everything turned. 772 00:46:50,516 --> 00:46:53,852 Fashion became about the youth 773 00:46:54,686 --> 00:46:56,563 rather than the establishment. 774 00:46:56,647 --> 00:46:57,815 [people chattering indistinctly] 775 00:46:57,898 --> 00:47:00,651 It was amazing to think that what had started in London 776 00:47:00,734 --> 00:47:03,403 essentially had now gone on an international level. 777 00:47:03,487 --> 00:47:05,113 [clapping] 778 00:47:05,197 --> 00:47:06,824 [Enninful] Fashion was changing. 779 00:47:06,907 --> 00:47:09,576 We weren't kids any more, everybody was growing up. 780 00:47:10,410 --> 00:47:13,163 It really felt like a revolution was underway. 781 00:47:15,541 --> 00:47:18,168 There was a sense that everything was changing. 782 00:47:19,044 --> 00:47:21,088 We were on the front page of every newspaper 783 00:47:21,171 --> 00:47:23,048 and we're like, "What the hell is this?" 784 00:47:23,131 --> 00:47:26,677 Did we know what was coming? No, but we knew something was coming. 785 00:47:26,760 --> 00:47:30,055 [Coddington] I said to Anna, "This is the beginning of the end, 786 00:47:30,138 --> 00:47:32,349 "where are we going with this?" 787 00:47:32,432 --> 00:47:34,643 What? You're gonna, like, bring back the '70s? 788 00:47:34,726 --> 00:47:37,104 You're gonna bring back sex? That's not happening. 789 00:47:37,187 --> 00:47:38,272 Action! 790 00:47:38,856 --> 00:47:41,692 [Enninful] Fur, feathers, sequins. 791 00:47:41,775 --> 00:47:43,193 It was extremely boring. 792 00:47:44,152 --> 00:47:47,698 Let's get women on the red carpet in our clothes. 793 00:47:48,532 --> 00:47:51,952 I just remember Madonna and Courtney Love saying, "Best dress." 794 00:47:52,035 --> 00:47:53,829 [laughs] 795 00:47:53,912 --> 00:47:55,664 [♪ theme music playing]